Surprise Me!

'The Actual Parchments' 5.13a

2014-01-30 2 308 Vimeo

Haha. So it’s pretty random and came from what feels like nowhere! I worked on it a good amount on January 22, which was a Wednesday. I went back that Saturday(Jan. 25) and started to get the bottom section wired, but didn’t really try all that hard. It was a good solid session none the less. I had also flashed ‘Endangered Species’(5.10d) and ‘Trey Lizardos’(5.11c/d) that day, which I think took a good amount of energy out of me and may have sorta hindered my session on ‘The Actual Parchments’ I went back Wednesday the 29th, warmed up on ‘Voodoo Economics’(5.8), flashed ‘Dancing Fox’(5.12b), and proceeded to go to work on ‘The Actual Parchments’(5.13a). Up until this point I had only worked the moves on top rope, unclipping the draws as I went up. I never made any serious links but just focused on learning each boulder problem. I approached it that day and decided to start trying to lead it and what not. To my complete and utter surprise I sent the route on my first go of the day! I still can’t believe it. I had to place some draws on my way up, but as I got towards the top I realized that I didn’t have any for the chains. Luckily I wasn’t too far above my last one so I just unclipped it and took it up with me. When I got to the chains though I decided to just top the thing out like you would a boulder. So I climbed on top of it, untied, tossed the rope, and walked off. It was such a rad experience!

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