Surprise Me!

Loose Cannon V9

2014-02-13 1 275 Vimeo

Somehow this only took me two sessions of working on it to send it. This is by far the fastest ive completed anything of this grade. I think I have my long reach to thank for that. Haha. On the day of my ascent I started out by locking my keys in my car and had to wait for my dad to bring me a spare. Because of this I started working the problem later than I wanted to, which meant it got kinda warm(the crux crimp is kinda slopey). I battled with sweat a bit, and did the moves I hadn't done last session. Then I started linking stuff from the sit. It came together in a pretty short amount of time thanks to my genius idea of filling an incut hold with chalk to dry the sweat on my left hand before making the reach to crux crimp. This worked rather well! The last move though, came as a bit of a surprise. I ended up doing this crazy jump where everything but my right hand cut, which turned into a wild one arm swing! I seriously thought I was gonna fall, but miraculously I didn't. During all this my foot dabbed the boulder behind me, so I did it again with a much more controlled swing. Haha. Definitely not as cool that way though…

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