Watch the full : \r<br>\r<br>General contror Tom Silva helps a homeowner install a new, energy-efficient wood door. (See below for a shopping list, tools, and steps.)\r<br>\r<br>Click here to SUBSCRIBE to the official This Old House YouTube channel: \r<br>\r<br>Shopping List for How to Install a Solid-Wood Exterior Door:\r<br>- Pre-hung wood entry door\r<br>- Minimal-expansion insulating foam, to seal cracks and voids\r<br>- Exterior-grade acrylic-latex caulk, to seal threshold\r<br>- 2 1/2-inch nails for pneumatic nailer\r<br>- Wood shims, to shim the doorframe\r<br>- 3-inch decking screws, to fasten doorjamb to framing\r<br>- Fiberglass insulation, to fill large voids\r<br>\r<br>Tools List for How to Install a Solid-Wood Exterior Door:\r<br>- Hammer\r<br>- Slotted screwdriver\r<br>- Utility knife\r<br>- Flat bar, for prying off casings\r<br>- Reciprocating saw, to cut through nails\r<br>- Level\r<br>- Caulk gun\r<br>- Pneumatic nailer and air compressor\r<br>- Cordless drill\r<br>- Imp driver\r<br>\r<br>Steps for How to Install a Solid-Wood Exterior Door:\r<br>1. Tap out the hinge pins from the old door using a hammer and a slotted screwdriver. Remove the door.\r<br>2. Use a utility knife to cut along the outer edge of the interior door casings. Slice through any paint or old caulk.\r<br>3. Pry the side and head casings free using a hammer and flat bar.\r<br>4. Use a reciprocating saw fitted with a metal-cutting blade to slice through the nails holding the side and head jambs in place.\r<br>5. Pry the jambs out of the doorway opening.\r<br>6. Check to ensure that the threshold and side casings are level.\r<br>7. Fill the voids around the doorway opening with minimal-expansion insulating foam.\r<br>8. Apply a thick, continuous bead of acrylic-latex caulk along the threshold.\r<br>9. Set the pre-hung door into the opening, then tip it up and into place.\r<br>10. Center the door in the opening, then check the side jambs for plumb.\r<br>11. Secure the door by nailing through the exterior casings and into the jambs.\r<br>12. Tap out the hinge pins and remove the new door from its frame.\r<br>13. Pull out the weatherstripping along the side jambs.\r<br>14. Slip wood shims behind the side jamb on the hinge side of the doorframe. Then use a level to ensure the jamb is perfectly straight and not bowed in or out.\r<br>15. Shoot 2 1/2-inch nails through the jamb and shims into the house framing.\r<br>16. Drill screw-shank clearance holes through the jambs; position the holes where theyll be hidden by the weatherstripping.\r<br>17. Drive 3-inch decking screws through the holes in the jambs and into the house framing.\r<br>18. Repeat Steps 13 through 17 to straighten and secure the latch-side jamb.\r<br>19. Cut the shims flush with the jambs using a utility knife.\r<br>20. Spray insulating foam into the voids around the doorjambs.\r<br>21. Fill any large voids with fiberglass insulation.\r<br>22. Reattach the weatherstripping to the jambs.\r<br>23. Nail new wood casing around the interior of the door.\r<br>24. Caulk the joints between the new doorframe and the exterior casing.\r<br>25. Apply an exterior-grade finish to both sides and all four edges of the wood door.\r<br>\r<br>Follow This Old House and Ask This Old House: \r<br>Facebook: \r<br>Twitter: \r<br>\r<br>Pinterest: \r<br>G+: \r<br>Instagram: \r<br>Tumblr:
